Showing posts with label Latin Cuisine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Latin Cuisine. Show all posts
Monday, October 18, 2010
The Food at Rivera is Even Better with the Introduction of New Menus
After my first visit to Rivera, I thought the food was fantastic, but with the introduction of new menus, I think the food is even more fantastic. When it comes to Latin Food, Chef John Rivera Sedlar, owner-chef of Rivera Restaurant truly believes in giving the diners at his restaurant a real sense of Latin Food history. Last July, along with his main CONEXIONES menu, he introduced 3 special regional menus available only in specific dining rooms within Rivera.
In the Sangre Room, the focus is on the Iberian roots of Latin Cooking; thus, the foods that are featured are from Spain and Portugal. The menu in the Samba Room is all about foods with South American, Central American and Caribbean influences while at the Playa Bar, it's all about seafood-themed cuisine inspired by Mexico as well as inspiration from the Southwest. If you can't decide, you can even opt for a Tasting Menu that includes 8 dishes from all three menus.
Last July, I was hosted along with a few other restaurant bloggers for a preview of the dishes that would be featured on the Conexiones menu as well as in the three menus mentioned above. In the end, our meal consisted of 15 total courses. Our first course was the Cabeza de Oro (from the Playa menu) with foie gras, lobster, scallop, truffle, jamon iberico and caviar. All the ingredients were layered on a golden head and it's definitely a luxurious way to start a meal.
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From the Samba Menu came our second course, an Argentine Mushroom Carpacchio with king oyster, bluefoot, chanterelle mushrooms, chimichurri spices and combava lime. I'm a big mushroom fan, so I was already sold when I saw this dish on our Tasting Menu and it didn't disappoint.
Our third course came from the main Conexiones menu and it was Equadorian Crudo with hiromasa, kumquats, Fresno chiles and chives. I enjoyed the freshness of the fish, but I thought it needed more of the kumquat for additional tartness.
Also from the Conexiones menu was the Post-Colombian Gazpacho, a traditional cold heirloom tomato soup. I'm not sure what was added to this soup other than tomatoes, but there's a depth of flavor in this soup that I wasn't expecting, but definitely enjoyed.
Next to arrive was the Chile Relleno, which was an Anaheim chile stuffed with buratta cheese and topped with martian red corn salsa and Cherokee tomatoes. When I went online to check out Rivera's current menus, this dish wasn't listed in any of them. Perhaps, it was a seasonal dish or it didn't make the final cut? Regardless, I found it quite tasty and hope that it is just a seasonal dish that will make a return appearance.
The Flan de Elote, a corn custard with black quinoa and squash blossom sauce, can be found on the Conexiones menu. This was definitely one of my favorite dishes of the night. I loved the sweet creamy texture of the corn custard paired with the chewy mouth feel of the quinoa.
From the Playa menu, a must order is the Chile Guero Relleno with tempura chile, crab, corn, soy, ginger and scallion. I really enjoyed the Asian-Latin fusion of ingredients and flavors. I had to share this dish, but I could have easily eaten all 4 by myself.
One of my least favorite dishes of the night were the Venezulan Arepas which were made up of traditional fried corn cakes and a soft shell crab in the style of Cartagena, Colombia from the Samba menu. I've never had an arepa before, but from what I've seen on tv and what I've read about it, an arepa is more of a sandwich made using a bread made from corn (but not necessarily corn bread). What I saw in front of me didn't fit my idea of what an arepa was supposed to be, plus in general, I just found the whole dish underwhelming flavor-wise.
Another standout and from the Playa menu, was the Clam Tamalli. The Clam Tamalli is a Pismo clam that was steamed with a sweet corn masa mix that included poblano chiles, garlic, oregano leaf and a blistered chile verde meuniere. Simply delicious.
Our next dish was the Parilla, a rib-eye filet with habanero chimichurri and yucca chips and it comes from the Conexiones menu. The meat was tender and juicy and I liked the crunch of the yucca chips. It's not as imaginative a dish as some of the dishes we had tried so far, but if you're in the mood for meat and potatoes, this is the dish for you.
I wasn't really into the Brazilian Feijoada dish which was a traditional black bean stew with lamb and came from the Samba menu. I've only had feijoida once before and it was mind-blowing. The black beans had been stewed for a couple of days with various cuts of meats so the flavor was amazing. In comparison, the Rivera version of the feijoada just didn't cut it for me, especially in regards to the black beans which didn't have the pure meaty flavor of what I had before.
Also from the Samba menu were the Bolivian Anticuchos, which were white sea bass skewers marinated with spicy aji peppers coated with semilla salsa. I really enjoyed the flavors, but found the sea bass itself to be a bit dry. Perhaps, it marinated too long and as a result, it was "cooked" through more than it should have been.
Finally, after all the savory dishes, it was time for dessert and it started off with my favorite of the three we tried, which was the Hielo Y Fuego (Ice and Fire), a poblano chile sorbet with a port reduction. The juxtaposition between the spicy ice cream and the coolness of the port reduction worked perfectly together.
My second favorite dessert was the Xochimilco, which was an ancho chile chocolate cake, with avocado mousse and lime pepper sauce. Chile and chocolate? Yes, please and when you add the sweetness of the avocado mousse to the mix, the Xochimilco was definitely a palate pleaser.
Our last dessert was the Pan de Santa Teresa which is a Spanish lenten bread pudding with cherimoya ice cream, cactus pear esencia and salted peanuts. I'm not much of a bread pudding fan, but this one was pretty good, but what really made this dessert memorable was the tartly delicious cherimoya ice cream.
It was definitely quite a meal with definitely a lot of highs to it. I've always enjoyed the food at Rivera, but with these new menus, Rivera has only gotten that much better and is a place I'd continue recommend to anyone who wants to experience fantastic Latin cuisine.
Rivera Restaurant
1050 S Flower St
Los Angeles, CA 90015-5100
(213) 749-1460
www.riverarestaurant.com
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Labels:
Latin Cuisine,
Latin Fusion Cuisine,
Los Angeles,
Pico Rivera
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Fantastic Latin Cuisine at Rivera
With the restaurant boom happening in downtown Los Angeles, I wanted the dust to settle a bit before checking out all the various eateries. First on the list was Rivera, the brain child of Chef John Rivera Sedler with his take on Modern Latin Cuisine. I bet you can tell how he came up with the restaurant name. Anyway, 5 of us shared 16 different dishes from snacks all the way to desserts and even partook in a couple of cocktails. Mine was the Summer Splash made of Vodka, Lemon, Basil and Honey and it was quite refreshing.
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Our meal started off with a trio of items from the snacks section of their menu. First to arrive was the Patatas Xips which were Kennebec potato chips that came with a chipotle-lime crema topped with caviar. Nothing spectacular, but at least the chips were light and crispy and I liked the tart and the little kick flavor of the crema.
Next came the Xnipek which was described on the menu as a Yucatan-style charred-habenero "Dog's Snout" Salsa and Mini Chips. The "Dog's Snout" refers to how the salsa is suposed to be so spicy that once you sample it, your nose will be equivalent to a dog's runny nose. I actually didn't think the salsa was as spicy as it proclaimed to be although it did have a kick, but it didn't matter, I loved it. If I could, I would have gone in the kitchen, spooned some into a jar or two and taken it home.
The trio was rounded off with the Tortillas Florales, housemade Nixtimal tortillas and 'Indian Butter". This is actually my second time experiencing these Tortillas with my first time being at Altamed's Fourth Annual East LA Meets Napa Event which I attended last July. Second time around was just as delicious. I loved the presentation of the pressed edible flowers inside the tortilla plus the tortilla itself which was thick, crispy and hearty.
After the snacks, we went into the starters and what better way to start than with the Chile Pasilla Relleno which was a chilled pickled mile chile filled with burrata cheese. Of the 6 starter items we ordered, this was my favorite. I enjoyed the slight vinegary aspect of the chile plus with it being served cold, it was refreshing to the palate. By the way, on some of the dishes, there were different kinds of what I'm going to call "spice art".
Soon after the Chile Pasilla Relleno, the other 5 dishes arrived in full force like the Cordero Vasco, which were Basque lamb chops, chorizo, piquillos, olives and capers. The lamb chops were cooked just right, but considering the ingredients that were used, I expected more pops of flavor, but was missing that.
The Piquillos Rellenos which were Spanish peppers stuffed with chorizo, golden raisins and gruyere cheese was actually one of the favorites of the table. I appreciated the tenderness of the pepper and how the sweetness of the golden raisins complemented the milder gruyere cheese. The chorizo wasn't as present as it could have been, but I didn't really miss it.
With a recommendation from our server, we also ordered the Bacalao Negro Fresco which was seared black cod and serrano ham crisp. I liked how the fish was delicate and moist, but had a crisped surface. The saltiness of the ham also went well with the mild flavor of the cod.
The next dish was my least favorite of the entire meal and it was the Cordorniz Cubana, a grilled quail with black beans. This is my fifth attempt at trying to like quail and it didn't take this time either. Most of my other party enjoyed this dish, but it wasn't for me. I've always find quail to be fatty. Maybe, if it was fried, I'd at least enjoy the crispy skin, but as of now, this is the last time I'm eating quail.
Last but not least of our starters was the Tamal which had braised pork short rib, seasonal mushrooms and guajillo sauce. The tamal itself was delicate and moist and maybe, I'm being just a bit greedy, but I would have loved more pork and mushrooms. I especially liked the mushrooms which added a nice earthiness to the overall dish.
After we finished off the last bit of the tamal, our 3 main entrees arrived along with a side of calabacitas. By the way, the calabacitas were prettily presented in a corn husk and I loved the color and the crunch of the squash, the bell peppers and the corn that made up that mixture.
Of our three main dishes, the one that I thought was just okay was the Maya Puerco Pibil Sous Vide which was banana leaf braised pork shoulder and Peruvian potatoes. Honestly, I don't understand what the big deal is in regards to meats that are cooked using the sous-vide method. Perhaps, my expectation isn't correct in that I always assume that the meat cooked in this manner should be extra tender, extra juicy. It's not as if the pork in this dish was tough by any means, but it didn't meet my perhaps too lofty expectations? However, this dish's presentation was quite eye catching.
The Kurobuta Pork Chop with a Mole Sauce and Sweet Potatoes on the side was tasty. It's not the best mole sauce I've ever had, but it did have wonderful flavor plus the pork chop was thick and juicy.
Everyone went gaga over the our last entree which was the Duck Enfrijolada with goat cheese, stacked blue-corn tortillas, black bean puree and chile rioja sauce. It wasn't the prettiest dish of the night, but all the flavors melded well together, from the pungency of the cheese to the earthiness of the black beans and so on.
13 dishes down and yes, we still had room for dessert and we ordered three of them. The first one to arrive was the Torta Xocolata, a chocolate torte and drunken pineapple. I forgot to ask what the pineapple was drunk from, but the tartness of the pineapple paired well with that dark chocolate torte.
The Crema Catalana with almonds and xerex creme had a wonderful crispy caramelization on the surface, but was a bit soupy, which was unexpected. I liked the fact that this dessert wasn't overly sweet, but I wish that consistency was thicker because I would have enjoyed it much more.
Our last dessert was Quesos EspaƱoles which consisted of three Spanish cheeses with sangria jus and crusty bread. We let our server choose our cheeses. Unfortunately, I only remember that one of them was a Manchego and the other was a blue cheese. Regardless, it's hard to go wrong with cheese and it was the perfect finale to our meal.
Overall, except for one or two minor things, this was a wonderful meal and if all the new downtown Los Angeles restaurants are on par with Rivera, than I have a lot to look forward to as I explore more of what downtown has to offer.
Rivera Restaurant
1050 S Flower St
Los Angeles, CA 90015-5100
(213) 749-1460
www.riverarestaurant.com

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Labels:
downtown Los Angeles,
Latin Cuisine,
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